Aquarium

Aquariums Specials


February 20, 2010

Important Tips on Keeping a Healthy Plecostomus

Hypostomus plecostomus are a part of the family Loricariidae. This is the largest family of catfish with close to 700 individual species and growing annually. The Greek translation of plecostomus, like most species names, can be broken down into two parts. Pleco means pleat as in a fold in fabric. Stoma is mouth. Combine the two and you have, “folded mouth.”

Plecostomus are native to Central and South America. The name plecostomus refers to a single species of what are known as common algae eaters. This statement is scientifically accurate but somewhat misleading. There are over 50 officially classified species of armored catfish native to this region of the world. The species name plecostomus has evolved to encompass all of the algae eaters in the family Loricariidae because of their similarity in appearance. This unofficial grouping is further shortened to plecos or simply plecs by aquarium hobbyists.

Plecos are inarguably one of the most popular choices among freshwater aquarium owners. Their unique, almost pre-historic, features undoubtedly contribute to their popularity. These features are not coincidental. Fossil records of Loricariidae date as far back as the Miocene period. It is, however, their dietary habits that have won them a home in so many aquariums around the world.

One of the most readily distinguishable traits of algae eaters is their wide, suction-cup like mouths. This is a highly specialized feeding apparatus for what in essence is a bottom dwelling scavenger fish. In addition to its most obvious application, this suction mechanism’s secondary function can best be demonstrated by watching a plecos cling seemingly effortlessly to the side of an aquarium. This same ability helps to keep these fish anchored securely in place in the most torrential floodwater run offs the rainy season has to offer. A plecos will emerge from even the most severe rainy season in the feeding grounds it has become accustomed to, where other less adaptable species have been swept countless miles downstream. Their distinctive and highly developed mouths have also won them the nickname, suckermouth.

The name plecostomus applies to a single species of armored catfish. This is a very large fish and should only be housed in an aquarium of adequate size. The terms plecostomus, plecos, and algae eater, on the other hand, have become generic labels in the aquarium trade industry. They encompass a variety of Loricariids all of which are breeds of armored catfish. The adult size of these individual species varies considerably. This information is usually included as part of the product description both on the internet and in local retail stores. If the information is not present, ask. Choosing the right size maintenance fish for the right size aquarium will save you from future headaches down the road. Some species will only grow to a maximum length of two inches while other will out grow a small aquarium before you know what happened.

Armored catfish are excellent additions to any community tank. They are bottom dwellers by nature. Bottom dwellers as a rule tend to ignore the activities of their fellow tank mates. When they venture up from their substrate domain to clean the interior walls of your aquarium they will remain focused on the task at hand rather than the fish swimming passed them.

A plecos’ indifference toward the presence of fellow tank mates does not apply to its perceived domain. It is exceedingly rare for bottom dwelling fish of any species to peacefully coexist with each other. Most will vigorously defend their territory to the point of violence. Unless you have thoroughly researched the subject you should not attempt to keep more than one bottom dweller in an aquarium.

Loricariids are a nocturnal family. They are active at night and will instinctively seek out shelter to sleep in during the day. Providing your plecos with a place rest in during the day will help it acclimate to its new surroundings. While this is not strictly necessary, it is recommended. Plecos will rest on the substrate during the day in an unadorned aquarium.

The label “algae eater” is somewhat misleading. Scavenger fish are omnivorous. Most of a plecos’ daily dietary intake is from consuming the decomposing matter off the aquarium floor from the food scraps missed by other fish. This is every bit as beneficial to an aquarium owner as is their obvious affinity toward algae.

Plecos are one of the most self sufficient fish you can have in an aquarium. This is easy to take for granted. It is inadvisable to assume that foraging will provide your plecos with enough nutrients to keep it healthy and fit. This is especially true if you own a larger member of the plecos family.

Putting sinking wafers or pellets in your aquarium at night when the other fish are less active will help make sure your plecos’ dietary needs are being meant. Loricariids are not finicky eaters. They will eat the same vegetables humans do. They eat a wide variety of vegetables. Vegetables can be cooked or served raw, leafy like spinach or bulky like zucchini, broccoli, and cauliflower. Having driftwood in your aquarium is also recommended. Plecos love to nibble on drift wood. This would seem to indicate that wood provides a needed source of fiber.

Plecos are not known to spawn in captivity. Most species that do not breed in captivity are captured to support the thriving aquarium industry. This is typically not the case when it comes to plecos. Central and South America natives have turned the harvesting of plecos eggs into an industry all its own. The eggs are collected from drying streams and riverbeds and then sold to fish farms where they are hatched and raised for eventual resale. Many plecos sold in fish stores were harvested just this way.

A pleco is the perfect addition to any freshwater aquarium. Unless of course you enjoy scraping algae off the side of your tank. To get more informative facts about freshwater aquarium fish visit the fish buying guide.

Filed under Aquariums by Stephen J Broy

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Keeping Your Neon Tetra Healthy & Happy

Neon tetras or Paracheirodon innesi are members of the family Characidae. Characidae are commonly referred to as Characins. Neons are natives to southeastern Columbia, eastern Peru, and western Brazil, including the tributaries of Solimoes. They can be found in black water or clear water streams.

Neons are one of the most popular choices among freshwater aquarists. They only grow to a little over an inch in length. This makes them perfect for smaller applications like the thin-line wall mounted aquariums and desktop nano tanks that have become so popular in recent years.

Neon tetras have translucent bodies. Their nearly see through bodies don’t stop them for being one of the most colorful fish you can buy for a freshwater aquarium. Juxtaposed against the bodies is a dual set of color extravaganza. A luminescent blue racing stripe runs from head to tail. Underneath the metallic blue, a brilliant red stripe begins at mid-body and travels back to the base of their tail fin.

If the visual drama color brings to an aquarium is the ultimate objective, you may wish to consider an even more colorful species. Neons are closely related to cardinal tetras. At first glance they may appear virtually identical. There is in fact only a single distinguishing feature that identifies them as two separate species. The intense red stripe that runs half the length of a neon’s body runs from head to tail on a cardinal. This trait diminishes the fish’s translucent quality, but makes for an overall more colorful addition to your aquarium. You may wish to consider the fact that cardinals are much less likely to breed in captivity than neons before making a final decision.

Neons are timid creatures. They should not be housed with more aggressive species. They are also very small as far as fish go. Don’t house them with larger species unless you don’t mind waking up with one less fish in your aquarium. You will also want to make sure provide them with plenty of hiding places. Lots of plants and rocks or aquarium decor will help them fell more secure in their new accommodations.

Neons are a shoaling species. Shoaling fish are meant to be raised as a community. They are not well suited to environment devoid of other members of their species. Social habits are an important factor to consider before buying any new species for your aquarium. Many shoaling species simply will not survive the adjustment to their new environment if they fish themselves suddenly deprived of other members of their species.

There is yet another factor to consider when deciding whether these fish are right for your particular aquarium. Tetras are notorious fin nippers. The more neons you have together, the higher the likelihood that this will become a problem. Long, flowing fins like those found on a betta fish or a fancy tailed guppies will most likely prove to be a taste treat to tempting to pass up.

Neons are one of the easiest fish to take care of. They are a robust species. These omnivores will fare well on common fish flakes. Their diet can be further supplemented with a variety of frozen or freeze-dried products formulated for omnivores. The average life expectancy of a neon tetra in the wild is 10 years. They will commonly live in excess of five years in an aquarium.

The aquarium trade is a relatively young industry. Goldfish were virtually unknown in the United States until their public debut at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. After the conclusion of WWII, massive fleets of transportation and cargo vessels were now free to pursue commercial interests. Neon tetras were one of the very first tropical species to be introduced to the burgeoning fish hobby industry. They are very much responsible for helping to transform this hobby into the global enterprise it is today. Part of this globalization included the development of commercial fish hatcheries. The vast majority of neon tetras sold in the world are raised to support this industry rather that caught in the wild.

Neon tetras don’t need a lot of room. Any desktop nano tank. is large enough to keep an entire family of them in. They don’t take up much space and they make great accent pieces to your dcor. To uncover more interesting facts on freshwater aquarium fish check out our online fish guide.

Filed under Aquariums by Stephen J Broy

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February 10, 2010

Choosing and Maintaining An Aquarium For Your Child

Fish are perfect for first pets. They are silent, contained, and not messy. They also allow children to learn responsibility over pets (in terms of aquarium maintenance) and can let them build up their skills toward tending to a more complex pet. You may have to start by cleaning the tank yourself and having your child help with small tasks before they can eventually fully take over.

Bigger aquariums tend to be much better than smaller. Though it is tempting to save money by buying the traditional bowl, the water will almost always be more easily contaminated. Bigger tanks can firstly support different filtration systems. Secondly, bigger tanks have more water, which means that if there is a slight impurity in the water, it will be less problem to the fish than being in a smaller bowl. More water means more dilution for imperfections.

You can also have more fish in a bigger tank, and they can all live happily and have their own space. Why buy all of the equipment for a tank and have just a solitary, lonely fish? The fish themselves are very inexpensive and do not require much food. Having more fish is good for the health of all the others because it is more like a natural environment. It is good for them to interact.

The reason why a bigger tank and more fish are important to tank maintenance is because the aquarium has its own tiny ecological system. You want to keep it as normal and natural as possible. The fewer fish you have, the more likely that a sick or dead fish will upset the balance.

Tank maintenance depends on several factors. The leading factor is what kind of fish you have: salt or fresh water. Fresh water fish tend to be less exotic and may lower the costs of your equipment. Salt water can be a great and rewarding challenge, but may not be a good option for kids just starting out. It is just one more factor you have to check and maintain.

The specific components of the system should be discussed with a professional at the pet store. They can help you fit the tank to your budget and your fish. There are a few things to do regardless of what type of system you have. Clean up any large messes, but most importantly you need to change out a third of the water and put in new about every two weeks. If you use EcoBio-Block products, you can reduce this part of your maintenance to once a month or less. EcoBio-Block contains beneficial bacteria that create a healthy environment for your fish. These bacteria which are found in nature, break down toxic organic waste into safer by-products, clarify your water and eliminate odors. All you have to do is put the block in the water and wait for the bacteria to build up in the tank. Just be sure to monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels on a regular basis.

The gravel should be vacuumed occasionally, removing large pieces of organic waste. (This job will also be reduced with the use of the EcoBio-Block). You should check the filters every couple of weeks to look for any clogs (if they are left too long, you will definitely notice a dirty tank and probably some dead fish). You can also test the water for pH levels occasionally, or more often if they seem stressed and you can’t find any other possible reason.

Change the filter inserts at least once per month to ensure everything is going all right. Apart from that, just be observant. Count your fish, if you have a lot of them. Watch how they play with each other every day, if there is bullying, if some are not getting any food, or if others are getting too much. If you have an overly aggressive fish, you should remove it.

Find the correct aquarium maintenance for your home setup. Look into EcoBio-Block to help with the job. Head online and learn more now.

Filed under Aquarium Fish by Leonard Boyler

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January 28, 2010

Keeping Your Angelfish Healthy & Full of Vigor

Angelfish are numbered among of one of the largest families of vertebrates on the planet. The family Cichlidae is made up of over 1,300 scientifically identified species in 220 assorted genera. Previously undiscovered species are being classified to this family every year. It is highly possible that there could be as many as 3,000 individual species that fall within the scientific classification of this family. This family, more commonly known as cichlids, also includes oscars, discus and tilapias. Many sources will tell you that angelfish are endemic to the Amazon River. While this is in fact true, this species also inhabits both the Orinoco River and Essequibo River basins. Substantial populations of this species exist throughout Guyana, Venezuela, and Columbia in addition to Brazil.

Cichlids have become ever more popular with freshwater aquarium enthusiasts since they started being exported by the aquarium trade after the conclusion of WWII. Angelfish are inarguably among the most popular and easily recognizable freshwater fish in the world. Their unique triangular profile makes them one of the most exotic looking freshwater species on the market. Selective breeding has increased the assortment of angelfish available to the consumer. Angels come in a variety of colors, from white, silver, gold and black to striped, marbled and Koi. Their availability keeps their price exceptionally reasonable. They are a robust species that can thrive in a variety of environmental conditions. Freshwater angels are also the easiest species to care for. Their ease of care has undeniably added to their global popularity.

While angels will not grow anywhere near the size of an oscar or a discus, they are not a small species. The angels you see in pet stores are typically quite young. Angels normally reach six inches in length in adulthood. They can be kept in a rather small volume of water as juveniles. A mature angelfish will require a minimum tank size of 10 gallons. A 20 gallon aquarium is preferable.

Angelfish have mild mannered dispositions. They are fantastic community dwellers. A note of caution: They will instinctively deem smaller tank mates as a tempting taste treat. Do not house them with species like minnows, zebra danios or guppies. You will also want to avoid housing them with fish such as barbs or tetras. Both of these fish are fin nippers by nature. An angelfish’s full, billowing fins are appetizing tidbit, perfect for nibbling on.

This is an omnivorous species. They will thrive on virtually anything. Any good quality tropical fish food will work. Brine shrimp, tubifex worms and blood worms are excellent nutritional supplements and will help maintain your angelfish’s fit and vigor.

Angelfish are natives of the Amazon River basin. They thrive in slightly acidic water. A pH factor of 6.8 and temperatures between 72-86 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. Under premium conditions angelfish have an average life span of 10 years.

When it comes to parenting, all fish can be divided into two specific categories. There are those fish that will desert their unborn eggs or even consume them with no regard to parental obligations. Then there are the fish that express varying amounts of parental intuition. All cichlids fall in the latter category. Angelfish are most often referred to as open brooders. Open brooders lay there eggs out in the open as opposed to hiding them from potential predation by cleaning a flat surface like a rock or piece of wood in order to deposit their eggs on. A common trait among brooders is that they will guard over the brood until they hatch. Typically the male adopts the role as the protector by standing guard while the female tends to the eggs. After they are hatched, both parents will take an active role in tending their offspring.

Keeping a specific fish in a fish tank that is not large enough could have catastrophic results. A savvy aquarist wouldn’t think about attempting to keep an angel nano fish tank. To discover more fun filled facts on freshwater aquarium fish browse through my online fish guide.

Filed under Aquariums by Stephen J Broy

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January 15, 2010

Tips And Techniques For Cleaning An Aquarium

So, you have got an aquarium that’s in want of a smart spring cleaning, but you do not understand specifically how to go about it? Should you merely scrap the mess and begin over? Should you try cleaning is while not emptying it 1st? The answer is that tearing it down and utterly starting over can take away the bacterial colonies made within the aquarium that are useful to serving to eliminate wastes. Unless the tank is extraordinarily terrible, beginning over should not be your initial option; it should be a last resort.

You may want to own an algae scraper or pad, a razor blade (plastic for an acrylic tank), some bleach, a water siphon, a bucket, some lime remover and glass cleaner created specifically for aquariums, a filter media and a filter brush, some recent bathtub towels and paper towels. You must begin with the glass, move to the decorations such as rocks and plants and then clean the gravel. You ought to then move on to the outside of the glass and therefore the fixtures and end by cleaning or replacing the filter.

Provide the glass an intensive cleaning on the within using the algae pad. You’ll find a giant selection of scrapers and pads for algae; from a scrubber with a protracted handle to magnetic scrubs. The small magnetic scrubs are a private favorite, but simply about any algae pad can do the job. You want to purchase the algae pads at a pet store as opposed to buying one from the house wares department of your local store. They give the impression of being just regarding the identical, however the house wares pads can contain harmful chemicals or soap that might be lethal to fish. If the algae is extremely stubborn you may want to scrape it with the razor blade or plastic blade.

After you’ve got completely cleaned the glass, remove the decorations, artificial plants and rocks that have a vital build-up of algae on them. Don’t use detergents or soaps when cleaning them. Though you would possibly suppose you’ve got fully removed the soap, there might and most most likely would still be some residue. You’ll scrub them with the algae scrubber or scrape them clean, except for very powerful problems you’ll use a ten% solution of bleach. Soak them for concerning fifteen minutes and then scrub off the remaining residue. Rinse them well in running water and permit them to dry fully. Create sure the bucket you employ has never held any kind of detergent or soap. Vacuum the gravel while the other decorations are out of the tank.

Use a water siphon to vacuum away any debris within the gravel. You’ll opt for from a selection of siphons and every one of them work in very a lot of the identical manner. If you wish to eliminate the need for a bucket, strive the Python. There also are adapters that can enable you to filter the siphoned water into the tank.

Use caution when using glass and lime cleaners as they may contain ammonia that is toxic to the fish. A commonplace lime cleaner is even worse. Use vinegar whenever doable or cleaners that have been specifically designed for aquarium cleaning. Forever rinse completely and leave nothing to chance.

If you want to wash the filter, you must wait a few weeks to do it. From the cleaning you already completed you have disturbed the useful algae and bacteria colonies on the decorations, gravel and plants. You haven’t utterly destroyed the eco system as a result of the filter will still contain a number of these helpful bacteria. Merely permit the filter to run for a couple of weeks to revive the balance. Then you’ll clean it. If the filter is older than 3 weeks, replace it.

Roshelle Krung secretly likes to look through the medicine cabinets of her friends. Roshelle has written a site with reviews on wood medicine cabinet, as well as antique medicine cabinet.

Filed under Aquariums by Roshelle Krung

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